Dublin City

We suggest a four day Dublin city break in Ireland should be spent taking in all the sights and sounds that the city has to offer.

Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus recommended Dublin-City cycle tour Video:-

To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/WT4LFKiXSpY

Dublin, Ireland’s capital city a vibrant city, with mountains, countryside, and the sea all within 20 minutes of its. centre

For a four day city break, Dublin cannot be recommended enough. It is friendly and intimate, yet bursting with life and energy all year round, with luxury hotels, trendy restaurants, cafes, shops and nightlife as well as a thriving arts and culture scene. There is lots to see and do, with its Dublin Bay boat trip from Dun Laoghaire to Howth; Guinness Storehouse and Jameson Whiskey Distillery tours; shopping opportunities; theatre and cultural events; and the easy laid back attitude of the people of Dublin, adding to a sense of well being and the general up-beat nature of the Irish.

A sense of Dublin, Ireland 2019

Over the years, we have hosted many friends who have visited Dublin, sometimes as part of their European tour. We recommend that they stay in any one of the numerous city-centre hotels. They are all just “around the corner” from the main shopping area, including Grafton Street, and within easy walking distance of the cobbled alleyways of the Temple Bar cultural quarter, which is a nice place to wander during the day and “do lunch” in one of its many lovely and quirky restaurants. However, be warned, it takes on a very different loud pub scene at nighttime. There are a multiplicity of coffee shops and bars, in which to relax, when retail therapy gets too much.

We reckon that Dublin is a safe city relative to others we have visited around the world, provided of course that you take common sense precautions.

Recommendations for Dublin, Ireland 2019

A great way to spend four days in Dublin, in our opinion, would be something along the following:

Day 1: Explore Dublin City - get a ticket online and do the hop-on hop-off double-decker bus tour of Dublin, taking in all the sights, be sure to get off the bus for a bit of history, of the blood-and-guts kind, at Kilmainham Gaol, the scene of some of the most important and tragic episodes of Irish history, including the imprisonment and execution of the leaders of the 1916 Rising. Take in the near-by IMMA - Irish Museum of Modern Art in the Royal Hospital Kilmainham.

Day 2: Do the Guinness Storehouse tour and take in a Jameson or Telling Distilleries Whiskey tour. The Guinness Storehouse provides an interactive experience that fuses Ireland’s brewing heritage with Irish history. The Storehouse is Ireland’s most popular tourist attraction, where thousands of eager-eyed visitors make their way up through the exhibits until they reach the Gravity Bar at the top – and the free glass of what the cognoscenti consider the best Guinness in the world. The Jameson tour is the longest established while the newish Teeling Distillery in the Liberties, is the first distillery to open in Dublin for 125 years.

Day 3: Take a full day Wild Wicklow Tour up the Dublin and Wicklow mountains - It is possible to do day trips to the Cliffs of Moher; the Giant’s Causeway or Blarney Castle, however, all of these destinations are over a 100 miles from Dublin. The wild Wicklow Way is within 15 miles of your hotel. Dublin lies on a secluded bay in the foothills of the Dublin mountains, less than half an hour by coach.

Day 4: If you are interested in cultural attractions, take in the Museums, Art Gallery and the Trinity College tour and if possible try to get to see the Book of Kells in the Library.

If you are more of a music and alcohol buff then do the Dublin Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl.

On anyone of the nights, be sure to book either Taylors Three Rock or The Merry Ploughboy for organised dinner and Irish night stage entertainment, or freestyle it in Johnnie Fox’s pub. All three have buses that do hotel pickups and they are each a great nights entertainment.

I suppose all good things come to an end. So its time to pack up. If your flight is in the evening, it should be possible to leave your luggage in the hotel’s designated luggage room and perhaps hit the shops for the last minute gifts, or you can always linger on a bar stool with your glass of preferred wine or beer……………..”What’s not to like about that !”

Our must see recommendation for a trip to Dublin, Ireland 2019:-

A nighttime entertainment at The Merry Ploughboy up in the Dublin mountains.
the Guinness Storehouse tour and take in a Jameson or Telling Whiskey Distillery tour
On anyone of the nights in Dublin, book either Taylors Three Rock or the Merry Ploughboy for dinner and an Irish traditional music and dance extravaganza, they are a great nights entertainment. Alternatively, a trip to Johnny Fox’s, reported to be the highest pub in Ireland, is a must - the food is delicious, entertainment great, with lots of old memorabilia to feast your eyes on.

The average cost per person / per week is €800 (depending on type of hotel/ accommodation selected)

All of the tour tickets are available over the web where some savings can be made.

“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”

“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”

An image of Guinness gate in Dublin City

We do not normally write reviews on specific restaurants during our travels, save recommending ones we have visited and personally liked. We have decided in this instance to wear ‘the green jersey‘ and recommend without reservation (if your budget can rise to the occasion and you definitely have a reservation) “Chapter One”, restaurant for a memorable fine dining experience. Located at 18-19 Parnell Square, in the basement of the Writer's Museum.

The Irish government decision to start the re-opening of Ireland, post COVID-19, was initiated on Friday, October 22nd 2021. This decision was taken with the knowledge that over 89% of the Irish population over the age of 12 years are now vaccinated against serious illness should they contract COVID-19 in the near future.

Within the context of the above and with what some might call ‘an early adopter mind set’……….

We left our leafy suburb of Dublin 14 on the invitation of friends to meet for a meal in Chapter One. The autumnal feeling and leaf covered paths added to an atmosphere of surrealism as we wended our way to Dublin City centre via the LUAS green line. In more recent years, taking a car into the city has become increasingly less of an option as proximity parking to venues of interest is now a rarity. Bolstered against the autumn chill, sporting scarfs and wooly hats we sat fully masked (the new norm) with the other early adopters of our new found freedom. The open light rail carriage is nowhere near to capacity with its now familiar musk of perfumes and old spice et al expectancy of a Friday night out in Dublin town.

A Dubliner in his drug induced twenties, looking the worst for ware, works the centre of the carriage between the last two stops before Stephens Green stop. “Any auld Odds ?”, he asks as he non-threateningly looks to capitalise on the buzz of the euphoria that was a palpable in the air. This upbeat feeling amongst the expectant revellers and late finishing workers making their sleepy way home, after their long days work, was a feature of the previous two years of uncertainty, isolation and worry all being released on their first night of the town for a very long time.

The quite conversations taking place around us, as a result of Dublin’s multiculturalism, are now tinted with Chinese, Spanish, Urdu and even the occasional Irish country drawl. We escaped into the chilly night on O’Connell’s street north rail stop. Our walk up along Parnell Square reinforced our overall impression of the really welcome diversity of people we passed-by on our way.

Our experience of Chapter One began with our descent down the subtly light external basement staircase. They obviously believe in the principle that ‘you only get one chance to make a first impression’. Our welcome into the warm restaurant entrance hallway was both comforting and friendly, comparable to an Irish person welcoming visitors into their own home.

As this meal was effectively a celebration of friendship between our dining partners and ourselves, it also took on the unexpected heightened sense of a freedom celebration. Not unlike a cancer patient being given the all clear or a prisoner being released from longterm incarceration, our meal took on a life of its own deserving of pushing the boat out and going all out with the ‘Taster Menu’.

The meal itself was a tour de force, befitting its Michelin star status.

https://chapteronerestaurant.com/

The company and the conversation flowed on a steady, timely pipeline of culinary fusions.

Our taste buds were exited, titillated, massaged and satisfied throughout, from start to finish.

The staff and service were notable for their efficiency and general cheeriness.

It was a sporting perfect ‘Ten’, a musician’s joy of feeling the mellow sense of a tune, a comedian’s owning and conducting of an audience. Suffice to say that, we thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience.

We feel that our special fine dining experience at Chapter One was comparable to the taster meal we previously enjoyed in the Burj Al Arab in Dubai or the Cliff in Barbados. The best thing about Chapter One is that it is in Dublin and we are proud to say as Dubliners…….OMG………..”C’mon the Dubs”.

Anchor 1

Wicklow mountains

We recommend a day from a Dublin city break in Ireland should be spent on a guided tour coach trip up to the Dublin and Wicklow Mountains.

Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus recommended Dublin-Wicklow coach tour Video:-

To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/pz5qCmRxmxc

A one day coach trip, around the Dublin-Wicklow mountains, only a half hour from Dublin, Ireland 2019

For a three or four day city break, Dublin cannot be recommended enough. It is friendly and intimate, yet bursting with life and energy all year round, with luxury hotels, trendy restaurants, cafes, shops and nightlife as well as a thriving arts and culture scene. There is lots to see and do, with its Dublin Bay boat trip from Dun Laoghaire to Howth; Guinness Storehouse and Jameson Whiskey Distillery tours; shopping opportunities; theatre and cultural events; and the easy laid back attitude of the people of Dublin, adding to a sense of well being and the general up-beat nature of the Irish.

So if on a trip to Dublin be sure to take a guided tour around the Dublin-Wicklow mountains.

A sense of Dublin, Ireland 2019

We reckon that Dublin is a safe city relative to others we have visited around the world, provided of course that you take common sense precautions.

Recommendations for Dublin, Ireland 2019

A great way to spend four days in Dublin, in our opinion, would be something along the following:

Day 4: If you are interested in cultural attractions, take in the Museums, Art Gallery and the Trinity College tour and if possible try to get to see the Book of Kells in the Library.

If you are more of a music and alcohol buff then do the Dublin Traditional Irish Musical Pub Crawl.

Our must see recommendation for a trip to Dublin, Ireland 2019:-

A one day Wild Wicklow coach trip, around the Dublin-Wicklow mountains.
the Guinness Storehouse tour and take in a Jameson or Telling Whiskey Distillery tour

(3) On anyone of the nights in Dublin, book either Taylors Three Rock or the Merry Ploughboy for dinner and an Irish traditional music and dance extravaganza, they are a great nights entertainment. Alternatively, a trip to Johnny Fox’s, reported to be the highest pub in Ireland, is a must - the food is delicious, entertainment great, with lots of old memorabilia to feast your eyes on.

The average cost per person / per week is €800 (depending on type of hotel/ accommodation selected)

All of the tour tickets are available over the web where some savings can be made.

“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”

“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”

A map image of the route from Dublin to Lough Tay

Anchor 2

Waterford greenway cycle

Youtube link to the Waterford Greenway cycling stills image video:-

https://youtu.be/0j0-HYph3lc

Waterford Greenway Cycling Trip

We visited Waterford Greenway in March 2019 for a 2 day period. The climate was typically Irish weather, a bit of everything, wind, rain, cold, sleet, bright, warm and sunny.

Greenways in Ireland are inspiring a whole new wave of casual cyclists — with Waterford’s stunning 46km trail just one example of those available.

46km is a fair old cycle for anyone who doesn’t spend Saturdays in Lycra. Be realistic about your fitness and ability. Instead of the full greenway, why not try a section? We split it in two doing Dungarvan to Kilmacthomas and then the remainder the following day.The Coach House Coffee, set in a historic Famine workhouse, in Kilmacthomas is a good mid point at which to stop to eat and relax. The café features heaps of Waterford goodies on its menus — from floury blaas and Barron’s Bakery bread to O’Reilly’s sausages (the locals’ choice) and Flahavan’s porridge and flapjacks.

We stayed 2 nights at an AirBnB in Dungarvan end of the Greenway and then drove directly back to Dublin from Waterford.

A sense of the Waterford Greenway Cycling Trip

The official currency of Ireland is the Euro.

If you get an opportunity during your travels in Ireland, visit one of the greenways, as they are unique experiences in beautiful varying settings.

Our general experience of the people from Waterford, Southern Ireland was that they are very friendly and they all seem to have a particular liking for talking to strangers.

Unless you live locally, or make a habit of packing bikes, don’t bother bringing yours. A €20/€10 hire includes helmets and locks. For €45, electric bikes are an option for the less fit or able (or lazy). Shuttles can drop and collect riders along the route, too.The Waterford region could not be faulted for its service and the general excellent of the visitor experience.

Recommendations for Waterford Greenway Cycling Trip

There is no language barrier, if you speak only English. Irish is only spoken when the government inspector is around and about. Government grants are available in small areas throughout Ireland, to encourage the Irish to speak only Irish.

As a general rule, cycle on the left, pass on the right, and don’t be shy about using your bell. Think of a greenway cycle as touring, not a training spin.

A helmet, water, snacks and fully charged phone are essential. Bring a light backpack, rain jacket and layers to whip on and off as you go.

For fair-weather cyclists, we recommend that you double up with a padded saddle. You’ll thank yourself later.

See waterfordgreenwaybikehire.com and thegreenwayman.com for bicycle hire.

Our must see recommendation for a trip to the Waterford Greenway

Coach House Coffee and O’Mahony’s pub
The Waterford & Suir Valley Railway (wsvrailway.ie)
The Copper Coast (coppercoastgeopark.com) is one of the sweetest stretches of coastline in Ireland.

Cost per person Zero Euro if you bring your own bike or walk.

“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at your home, on your return.”

“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”

Anchor 3

Ashford Castle, County Mayo

Spent a memorable break in the 5 star Ashford Castle, Ireland.

Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Ashford Castle Video:-

To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/07OvxRT0iIk

Ashford Castle represents the very best of Ireland and Irishness. We were really impressed with this hotel during our recent mini break, and consider it to be one of the best and most memorable hotels that we have ever stayed in.

All guests at the luxury Ashford Castle hotel are afforded the opportunity to choose between having a laid-back pampered guest experience or alternately, an activity packed one. The “Red Carnation Hotel Collection” group are the present owners of the Hotel.

Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, Ireland 2020

The castle is situated on the border between the counties of Galway and Mayo, on the shores of Lough Corrib, with an unrivalled backdrop of lakes, forests and mountains. Since its original 1228 construction, by the Anglo-Normans, the Castle has changed hands many times. It was owned by the Guinness family in the 1900s and used as a British military fortress back in the 1600s. During all of its varying periods of different ownership, the Castle was enhanced and increased in splendour, into the magnificent edifice we see today. Because of its geographic location, close to the village of Cong, located deep in the rural heartlands of Mayo and Galway, it was chosen as the location for the movie classic, the “Quiet Man” back in 1951. Many of the scenes from the film were shot on the estate and many of the cast stayed in the hotel during filming.

A sense of Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, Ireland 2020

The friendliness, pride in their hotel and loyalty to the present owners, are the first things that any guest to Ashford Castle will experience from meeting any of the Hotel staff. The setting for the Hotel perched on the bank of Lake Corrib, resting in its estate of fabulous gardens, forest walks and beautifully appointed 9 hole golf course, now situated on what was previously the estate deer park, is an awe inspiring sight on a guest's arrival up the meandering driveway entrance. The entire estate covers an area of 350 acres.

Despite its size, the Hotel has succeeded in maintaining a homely restful feel and guests are immediately put at ease by the disarming charm of all of the staff, with the result that the Hotel was awarded no. 1 spot in the top ten Hotel resorts in both Ireland and England, for 2020.

Fine dining is provided in the “George V” dining room. While more casual dining can be found in the “Cullens at the Cottage”. Brunch and afternoon tea can be gotten in the “Dungeon” and the elegant “Connaught Room”, respectively.

Each of its 83 rooms and suites boast antique furnishings, sumptuous fabrics and custom designed carpeting and beds, affording any guest a most comfortable nights rest.

The Hotel sits on the gateway to Connemara and in close proximity to the Burren, County Clare with its karst landscape of vast cracked glacial-era limestone pavements.

Activities available for guests include:-

- Archery & Falconry;

- Fishing;

- Clay shooting;

- Zip lining & tree climbing;

- Cycling & Kayaking;

- Golf (A challenging, 9 hole course);

- Horse Riding;

- Lake Cruising;

- Paddle Boarding;

- Tennis;

- Off Road driving;

- Traditional Boat Trips.

English is the language of Ireland, however, the vast majority of Irish people can speak varying degrees of Gaelic.

Our recommendation for a trip to Ashford Castle, Cong, County Mayo, Ireland 2020:-

Avail of the ample activities on offer, all within Ashford Estate grounds or in close proximity to the Castle.
Experience both the fine dining and the more relaxed ‘Cullen’s at the Cottage’, dining experiences.
Visit nearby Cong village and all of the delights and sights that it has to offer.

The average cost per couple / per night B&B starts at circa €600.

“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”

“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”

Anchor 4

Road trip Dublin & Southern Ireland

We spent 10 days on a Dublin City tour and a Southern Ireland road trip.

Link to a stills image and video montage of our Dublin and Southern Ireland road trip

To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/PwAoD_tCTY0

A trip around Dublin

There is lots to see and do, with its Dublin Bay boat trip from Dun Laoghaire to Howth; Guinness Storehouse and Jameson Whiskey Distillery tours; shopping opportunities; theatre and cultural events; and the easy laid back attitude of the people of Dublin, adding to a sense of well being and the general up-beat nature of the Irish.

For an action packed three day, minimum, visit while in Dublin, take in the Guinness Storehouse, Kilmainham Goal, Glasnevin Cemetery tour, Trinity College and the Book of Kells. Visit anyone of the, free to enter, national museums (all open 7 days p/w). Do the Jameson or Telling Whiskey Distillery tour. Take in an Irish traditional music and dance extravaganza. They are great fun and are available in Johnny Fox’s, Taylors Three Rock or the Merry Ploughboy. They include a dinner and are a great night out, specifically directed at tourists to the City.

A road trip around Southern Ireland

Geographically speaking, Ireland is small and distances between locations are fairly short, but driving times in Ireland are often longer than you would think. The most beautiful parts of Ireland are often remote and take the longest to reach. So in order to experience the country properly, do not expect to see all of Ireland in seven days. There are a number of ways to get around Ireland, but really, the best way to see Ireland in seven days is by car, as you’ll have the flexibility to stop off along the roadside at whatever takes your fancy.

Ireland is a small island to the west of the UK. At its widest it is only 275km, so theoretically you could drive west from Dublin to Galway in two hours. Except you wouldn’t. You’d take the long way round and spend a week (or two!) exploring southern Ireland.

The roads are well sign posted, and they drive on the left (if you’re from New Zealand, Australia or Britain, you’ll feel like you’re at home) and cute, colourful villages make for great pit stops and photo opportunities at every turn. (But you will find random roundabouts in the middle of highways!)

The best way to see Ireland is to self-drive along the narrow roads of villages and country lanes and the occasional motorway between cities.

Is driving in Ireland difficult? As Irish people, We would be inclined to say no. In general, main roads and motorways are in good condition and well marked. It’s when you find yourself on narrow countryside or coastal roads where you might find things a bit trickier. In these instances, expect that you may have to pull in to let oncoming traffic pass, or that you may have to reverse a little back down the road. When visiting Ireland from another country, the main thing for most people to overcome when touring Ireland by car is that we drive on the left side of the road – if you’re comfortable with that concept, then you will be absolutely fine.

In our seven days in Ireland itinerary, we started off in the capital city of Dublin. From here, we made our way firstly south to Kilkenny Castle, working in a clockwise direction through a looped route that would bring us through the southern parts of Ireland and over west into Connemara, before finishing up once again in Dublin.

We absolutely loved this Ireland road trip itinerary, taking just long enough to stop at a pub (or two) for lunch, to photograph the beautiful countryside, to pull over and dash into a little shop or a castle that took our fancy.

Briefly, our seven day Irish road trip is as follows:

Day 1-3: Dublin
Day 4: Kilkenny Castle & the Rock of Cashel (12th Century Castle)
Day 5: Blarney Castle & Gardens (13th Century Castle)
Day 6: Killarney National Park and the Ring of Kerry
Day 7: Bunratty Castle and folk park (15th Century Castle)
Day 8: Connemara National Park via Galway to Renvyle onto Cong and Ashford Castle (13th Century Castle)
Day 9: Cong back to Dublin

We have four previous Irish travel blogs that you might like to view for greater depth on these locations:-

JustRetired50Plus blog on Ashford Castle in County Mayo:-

https://www.justretired50plus.com/post/ireland-al-1-5-a-staycation-in-the-spectacular-ashford-castle-hotel-country-estate-ireland

JustRetired50Plus blog on A city break in Dublin:-

https://www.justretired50plus.com/post/ireland-al1-5-a-4-day-self-directed-city-break-tour-of-dublin-city-the-capital-of-ireland

JustRetired50Plus blog on A guided tour of the Dublin & Wicklow mountains:-

https://www.justretired50plus.com/post/ireland-al1-3-a-guided-tour-of-the-dublin-and-wicklow-mountains-outside-dublin-city

JustRetired50Plus blog on Greenway cycling in Co Waterford:-

https://www.justretired50plus.com/post/ireland-leisure-al-8-a-cycling-tour-on-the-waterford-greenway-in-southern-ireland

On this trip we spent three days visiting Dublin and seven days on the Southern Ireland road trip. The climate during our ten days was typically Irish weather, a bit of everything, wind, rain, cold, sleet, bright, warm and sunny. So a visitor has to come prepared for all weathers when visiting Ireland at any time of the year.

We stayed three nights at Clayton Hotel in Ballsbridge, one night at Blarney Woolen Mills Hotel, two nights at the Lake Hotel in Killarney, one night at Glenlo Abbey Hotel in Galway, one night in Renvyle Hotel in Connemara and then drove directly back to Dublin from Ashford Castle in Cong. The final night was spent in the Clayton Airport Hotel, prior to departure back to the USA.

A sense of a Dublin City and Southern Ireland Road Trip

The official currency of Ireland is the Euro.

If you get an opportunity during your travels in Ireland, visit one of the greenways, as they are unique experiences in beautiful varying settings.

Our general experience of the people from Southern Ireland was that they are very friendly and they all seem to have a particular liking for talking to strangers.

For such a small country, Ireland really does have a lot to offer in the sightseeing department. Major selling points include sublime seascapes, a strong literary heritage, romantic castle ruins, lively towns and cities, ancient heritage sites and let’s not forget – a patchwork of luscious, emerald landscape.

Not always the most obvious, but the culinary scene in Ireland is absolutely buzzing too. The fact that Ireland is an island lends itself to magnificent seafood and the quality of Ireland’s other food produce is second-to-none. Ireland is famous for its meat and dairy produce and there is a huge focus on local produce and sustainability amongst Irish establishments.

No matter its duration, any Ireland itinerary, especially for first-time visitors to Ireland, should incorporate a smattering of the above to cover off a range of Irish highlights. That way, you’ll scratch the surface across a broad range and uncover where you would like to focus your efforts on your return visit to Ireland – trust us, you will be back!

Plan to under, rather than over-reach on what you see during your Ten days in Ireland. Ireland really is so achingly beautiful that you’ll find yourself compelled to stop more often than you think.

Recommendations for a ten day road trip around Dublin & Southern Ireland

As a general rule, drive on the left, pass on the right, and don’t be shy about stopping to view the many scenic photo opportunities along the way.

There are plenty of castles to see in Ireland. On this trip we visited five of the Top Ten Irish Castles.

On this trip we had to make a choice, due to time constraint, between doing the Ring of Kerry or doing the Ring of Beara or Sea Head Drive or the Dingle Peninsula. All of these feature their own Irish version of unbelievable beauty. We chose the ring of Kerry drive. There are many incredible stops along this 200K round trip drive. Chief amongst them is the Portmagee boat day trip to the Skellig islands. These islands were once home to a monastery of monks and are now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Skellig Michael was the setting for some of the iconic scenes in the latest Star Wars movies.

Our must see recommendation for a trip around Dublin & Southern Ireland

(1) While in Dublin, take in the Guinness Hopstore, Kilmainham Goal, Glasnevin Cemetery tour, Trinity College and the Book of Kells. Visit anyone of the free to enter national museums (all open 7 days p/w). Do the Jameson or Telling Whiskey Distillery tour. Take in an Irish traditional music and dance extravaganza. They are great fun and are available in Johnny Fox’s, Taylors Three Rock or the Merry Ploughboy. They include a dinner and are a great night out, specifically directed at tourists to the City.

(2) Kilkenny Castle, Rock of Cashel, Blarney Castle, Bunratty Castle and Ashford Castle.

(3) Connemara National park drive is a pleasure to behold for any visitor.

(4) If you get a chance, cycle the Waterford Greenway along the Copper Coast (coppercoastgeopark.com) is one of the nicest stretches of coastline in Ireland.

With the American Dollar parity to the Euro during our trip in Nov 2022, there has rarely been a better time to visit Ireland.

“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at your home, on your return.”

Back to Europe

Anchor 5

Inis Mor, Aran Islands

Embracing Tranquility: A Three-Day Escape to Inis Mór in the Aran Islands.

Our Irish opinion of a visit to the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland.

Link to a full 15 minute stills image and video montage of our Inis Mór in the Aran Islands trip

To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/WFrTU6-3mVM

Link to a short 1 minute stills image and video montage of our Inis Mór in the Aran Islands trip

To view the video select:- https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7gj7qgMkJ3/?igsh=MmZyNDc2dW42emx4

During the tourist season (May - Sept), the ferries can disgorge greater than a thousand visitors per day onto the island. Luckily, the tourist infrastructure on the island can absorb these numbers. The day trippers start to arrive at 1000hrs and depart before 1800hrs. The island is quite serene and tranquil either side of this more intense eight hour period. This is the modern day rhythm of a popular offshore tourist dependent island.

Quite a lot of tourists take a day trip to the Aran Islands as part of their whistle stop tour of Ireland. Our recommendation is to spend 2 - 3 days on the islands to really experience the immersive nature of island life. It is only with this added time that a visitor can slow down to the slower more enjoyable pace of island living.

After a scenic ferry ride from Rossaveel to Inis Mór (The Big Island), the island comes into view, its rugged beauty and dramatic cliffs set the tone for the days ahead. Upon arrival in Kilronan, the island’s main village, we check into a cozy bed and breakfast, where the warm hospitality of Padraic and Ronan make us feel right at home. During our stay on the island we stayed in the Pier House guesthouse situated nearest to the Kilronan ferry drop-off and pickup pier in the harbour, and beside the local bicycle hire outlets.

If you're seeking a serene getaway with a touch of adventure and a wealth of history, then Inis Mór in the Aran Islands is your perfect destination. This small yet enchanting island off the west coast of Ireland offers a delightful blend of natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and warm local hospitality. Here’s a recount of our blissful three-day stay on Inis Mór.

Day 1: A Warm Welcome and First Impressions

Morning:

Our journey began with an early morning 3.5 hour drive from Dublin to the ferry port of Rossaveel. After parking our car in the ferry port carpark, we walked the 100m to the quay wall where we took the 1pm ferry from Rossaveel to Inis Mór. The light sea breeze and the sight of the island on the horizon filled us with anticipation. Upon docking at Kilronan, the island’s main village, we were greeted by friendly locals and the charming sight of stone walls.

Afternoon:

We checked into a delightful bed and breakfast, where our hosts Ronan & Padraic, made us feel instantly at home. The comfort of a cozy room with a view of the sea set the perfect tone for our stay.

Strolling around Kilronan we quickly got our bearings, whilst all the while enjoying our introduction to the islands narrow roads and laneways, lined on both side with dry stone walls.

Evening:

In Kilronan, just a 5 minute walk from our B&B we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at the local hotel - the Aran Islands Hotel. The seafood chowder and freshly caught fish were simply divine. We concluded our evening with a peaceful stroll along the harbour, watching the sun set over the water, casting a golden glow on the tranquil surroundings.

Day 2: Delving into History and Culture

Morning:

After a hearty full Irish breakfast, we rented electric bikes—ideal for a leisurely exploration of the island’s scenic paths. Our first stop was Dún Aonghasa, the renowned prehistoric fort perched on a dramatic cliff edge. The gentle 20 minute hike up to the fort from the visitor centre offered stunning views, and standing atop the ancient fortifications, we marvelled at the rugged beauty of the Atlantic Ocean below. Be advised, that this OPW (Office of Public Works) managed tourist attraction does not allow the flying of drones, if you were so inclined. It’s one of the biggest tourist attraction on the Aran Islands, and one of the most popular things to do on Inis Mor. It’s not known for sure, but the fort is believed to be more than 3,000 years old, with portions dating to the Bronze Age and Iron Age.

Afternoon:

Our cultural journey continued with a visit to the Aran Sweater Market. Here, we learned about the intricate patterns and craftsmanship of the famous Aran sweaters. We couldn't resist purchasing a few as keepsakes. A leisurely lunch at a quaint traditional Nan Phaidi café followed, where we enjoyed homemade soup and freshly baked bread.

We spent a very relaxing 2 hours on the most beautiful beach with crystal clear waters, enjoying the warmth of the 17 degree sunshine. The heat of the sun was amplified by the sheltered position of the beach and with little or no breeze we even ventured into the Atlantic waters for a bracing, refreshing swim. This blue flag beach at Cill Mhuirbhigh has to be considered one of Ireland’s finest.

Another of the afternoon’s highlight was a visit to the lesser-known Black Fort (Dún Dúchathair). Its remote location and the dramatic coastal views made it a tranquil spot, perfect for reflecting on the island’s ancient past.

Back near Kilronan, we indulge in a traditional Irish stop at a local pub. Fresh home mad brown bread sandwiches and a pint of Guinness perfectly capped off the day.

Evening:

Dinner at a charming restaurant featured locally sourced ingredients, including succulent lamb and farm-fresh vegetables. Later, we immersed ourselves in the local culture with a traditional music session at a nearby Ti Joe Watty pub. The lively tunes of accordion and Bouzouki coupled with the warmth of the locals, made for a truly memorable experience.

Day 3: Natural Wonders and Lasting Memories

Morning:

After yet another hearty full Irish breakfast, we spent a very relaxing 2 hours on the most beautiful beach (An Tra Mhor), just south of the airport, with crystal clear waters, enjoying the unseasonal early summer warmth. We enjoyed the luxury of having a kilometre long beach completely to ourselves, surrounded by bird song and the lapping waves. A memory we will both cherish.

Following our blissful early morning we set off to explore the Seven Churches (Na Seacht dTeampaill). This historic monastic site, dating back to the 8th century, offered a serene glimpse into the island’s spiritual past. Wandering among the ruins, we felt a deep sense of connection to the history etched into the weathered stones.

We began our final day with a visit to the Wormhole (Poll na bPéist), a natural geological marvel. The rectangular pool carved into the rocky coastline was fascinating, and watching the powerful waves crash into it was mesmerising. This Wormhole has been made famous as the location for two of the ‘Red Bull Cliff Diving’ competitions.

Afternoon:

Our next destination was the island’s highest point, Dún Eochla, a Bronze Age fort offering panoramic views of Inis Mór. The gentle climb was rewarded with breathtaking vistas, making it a perfect spot for a picnic lunch. Surrounded by the island’s unique flora, including rare wildflowers and butterflies, we savoured the tranquility.

We made the steep climb up the Eochall Tower, situated on the highest point on the island. As the tower is closed to the public it allowed us the opportunity to fly our drone, at very low level, and to capture some fabulous panoramic footage of the entire island with the mainland in the distance as an ever present backdrop.

We spent the afternoon leisurely exploring the island’s hidden gems, including its beautiful sandy beaches and quiet coves. The unspoiled nature and peaceful ambiance were rejuvenating.

Evening:

For our final evening, we chose a cliffside spot to watch the sunset. The sky ablaze with colours reflected on the ocean, creating a magical and serene scene. Dinner at a local bistro, featuring fresh Irish seafood and locally grown produce prepared in an Italian pasta and risotto style, was the perfect end to our stay. Later, we immersed ourselves once again in the local culture with a traditional music session at a nearby Ti Joe Watty pub. The lively tunes coupled with the warmth of the locals even got us up dancing, made for a truly memorable experience.

As the sun sets, we stroll along the beach, the sky painted in hues of pink and orange.

As we prepare to leave Inis Mór the next morning, we reflect on the island’s rugged charm, its rich history, and the warm, welcoming spirit of its people. Inis Mór is not just a destination, it’s an experience that stays with you long after you’ve left its shores.

Inis Mór’s blend of natural beauty, rich history, and warm hospitality makes it a perfect destination for all ages seeking both relaxation and adventure.

This three-day itinerary offers just a glimpse of what Inis Mór has to offer. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature enthusiast, or simply looking to escape the hustle and bustle, Inis Mór promises a memorable and rejuvenating retreat.

If you’re planning your next getaway, consider the enchanting Inis Mór. It’s timeless charm, serene landscapes, and vibrant culture promise an unforgettable retreat.

A sense of an Inis Mór in the Aran Islands trip

The official currency of Ireland is the Euro.

Inis Mór is the largest of Ireland’s three Aran Islands, although it’s still only approximately 8 miles long by 2 miles wide with a population over 800. Inishmaan (Inis Meáin) and Inisheer (Inis Oírr) are the other two islands, for reference, and both are even smaller and less populated.

If you get an opportunity during your travels in Ireland, visit one of the offshore islands, as they are unique experiences in beautiful varying settings.

Our general experience, of the people from Inis Mor in the Aran Islands on the edge of the Wild Atlantic tourist trail, was that they are very friendly and they all seem to have a particular liking for talking to strangers.

Plan to under, rather than over-reach on what you see during your vacation in Ireland. Ireland really is so achingly beautiful that you’ll find yourself compelled to stop more often than you think.

Recommendations for a three day trip around Inis Mór in the Aran Islands, Western Ireland

There is no language barrier. It feels like a place out of time, as the island is part of the Gaeltacht, where locals still speak the traditional Irish Gaelic (though have no issues speaking English to visitors). Government grants are available in small areas throughout Ireland, to encourage the Irish to speak only Irish.

Accommodation options on the island are a hotel stay, any number of B&Bs, hostel or Glamping Pods. The Pods are definitely a unique housing option, which can be a fun story to tell. The pods are cute but sparse with no wifi except in the site office. The pods are right across from the beach and only a 5-10 minute walk from the main town (Kilronan).

As a general rule, drive on the left, pass on the right, and don’t be shy about stopping to view the many scenic photo opportunities along the way.

There are plenty of ways to travel around the island of Inis Mór during your stay:-

Cycle ( pedal power or electric )
Walk ( there are scenic looped walks to suit all levels of fitness )
Horse and carriage tours ( Jarveys and their jaunting carts provide a variety of island trips )
Small coach tours ( Small mini-bus drivers provide a variety of island trips )

On our trip we had to make a choice of transport type. We chose the electric bike option as it gave us the opportunity to experience island life at our own pace. Each evening we returned the bikes and took out re-charged ones the following morning. This option gave us the autonomy and freedom to change our itinerary on the fly.

All of these modes of transport feature their own Irish version of unbelievable beauty as you make your way through the dry stone walled roads and fields. Inis More is the setting for the now annual Father Ted festival.

The best time to get good weather and avoid the crowds is the “shoulder season” of May-June and September-October. It is not recommended to visit between November and April, as the gales and squalls are fierce, ferries can’t always run, and days are very short.

The weather in the Aran Islands is incredibly variable, shifting in an instant from sun to rain to crazy wind. Because of this, layers are key, as is having a rain jacket with you pretty much all the time. Comfortable shoes are absolutely critical as well. Inis Mor is entirely exposed with no tree cover, so make sure to wear some sunscreen, even on cloudy days.

The ferries are pretty standard, but thankfully it’s not a long crossing (about 45 minutes from Rossaveel to Inis Mór). It’s important to know that the ferry can be (and often is) a rough crossing, fore-warned is fore-armed. There are bathrooms on board. You will not be allowed bring your own electric bike onto any of the ferries.

When visiting Dún Aonghasa early morning and late afternoon are the least crowded times during peak season, as the day trippers will be tied to ferry schedules.

Great care should be taken at both The Wormhole and Dún Aonghasa as the sea can be unforgiving and the cliff tops lead to sheer drops. The Wormhole has a number of underground channels and a cave, which connect to the Atlantic Ocean. When the tide is in, water rushes into the hole from these and forces the water over the edges, filling the hole from above. It is fascinating and unique. It is just like nature decided to carve out a natural rectangular swimming pool out of rock.

Our must see recommendation for a trip around Inis Mór in the Aran Islands

Our favourite part of the trip was our visit to Dún Aonghasa, the renowned prehistoric fort perched on a dramatic cliff edge.
While on Inis Mór, take in the Ti Joe Watty pub experience, with an Irish traditional and Irish contemporary music session every night starting around 10pm.
Hire a bike and take in the island attractions at your own pace and time.
Spend a few nights on the island to allow yourself to acclimatise to the slower pace of an offshore island life.

With the American Dollar near parity to the Euro during our trip in May 2024, there has rarely been a better time to visit Ireland.

“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at your home, on your return.”

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