Our experience and observations following five days visiting the tourist attractions that Buenos Aires, Argentina has to offer.
Link to video image montage of our city tour, Buenos Aires visit:-
Link to video image montage of our boat tour of Tigre & the Parana River Delta, Buenos Aires visit:-
Link to video image montage of our Fiesta Gaucha at Santa Susana Ranch, Buenos Aires visit:-
Link to a short Instagram video image montage of our Entire, Buenos Aires visit:-
Buenos Aires 2023
In considering a trip to Brazil / Argentina, we decided to take a guided tour with the Travel Department, with three different guides on-hand whilst visiting each of the three main holiday locations of (1) Rio de Janeiro (2) Iguazu Falls and (3) Buenos Aires.
The tour comprised twelve nights staying in four/five star hotels on a bed & breakfast basis. All of our daily coach trips began and ended at our hotels.
During our tour free days, there were optional tours available at extra costs.
After our five nights at the Grand Brizo Hotel in Buenos Aires we flew to Paris and then onto Dublin. (See our 5 night itinerary below).
(3) A guided tour, visiting the highlights that Buenos Aires, Argentina has to offer.
A sense of Buenos Aires, Argentina 2023
Embedded in the DNA of Buenos Aires are its Bars, Cafes, Football, Tango, the Obelisk and its Theatres.
Buenos Aires is located on the Atlantic Ocean, in the southeastern part of South America. It is widely recognised as one of South America’s most interesting European style urban centres. Its topology is one of a flat coastal city.
The general feel of the city is that of a European city experiencing the depths of a depression.
Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is broken up in 24 districts. The population is 2 - 3 million in the city and 15 millions in the greater city region. The city region is dominated by high rise living apartments blocks over ground floor shop units in a typical Spanish city style. The outer greater city region is dominated by house dwellings and occasional low rise apartment blocks.
The government structure of Argentina is similar to the American structure of President, Governor, Mayor.
At the time of our visit, Argentina was into its 2nd year after its recent default on its national debt. Inflation was up to 104%. Prices in the shops are relatively expensive. The government, in response, have put in place a tourist exchange rate of up to twice the official exchange rate.
Points of interest:
- Compulsory military service was stopped after the Falklands war back in 1982.
- Public education became free in 1943. The Government of Argentina has been ruled by successive presidents after the last military dictatorship rule from 1975 - 1983.
Our observations from our visit, we found Buenos Aires has :-
A diversity of architecture with a mix of Spanish, Italian and French influences;
A diversity of race, however, predominantly white, with their ancestral roots in Southern Europe.
Soccer football mania everywhere, especially rivalry between Boca Juniors and River Plate;
Good quality of food, allied to great variety;
Argentinian residents, comparatively, have a very relaxed pace of life;
Transaction payment methods of Cash (Argentinian Peso) or Credit Card. Revolut virtual credit cards are accepted in most places, but be aware of the exchange rate that you are getting on your credit cards.
A lot of ad-hoc recycling taking place due to social deprivation;
Evidence of political, social and economic issues as a consequence of poor policy implementation by successive governments;
Many poor footpaths that are quite often prone to trip hazard;
A homelessness problem that is worsening;
No beaches, however, it has a large dockland area and extensive river estuary frontage;
Self sufficiency in shale gas and shale petroleum, however, the country remains a net importer of oil products;
Numbers of hawkers on its streets, would exceed its European city equivalents;
Hotels of varying standards to suit all pockets;
2 airports, 1 international airport 35k south of the city and 1 domestic airport nearer the city itself;
Transportation systems around the city that are easy to access. It has an excellent metro system, allied to its public bus transport and cheap taxis and Ubers available in plentiful supply;
General safety standards that are more on a par with those found in Europe;
2 tier systems in education and health based on wealth. This system continues to polarise its residents into rich and poor.
With the country now in recession, pick pocketing and petty theft is on the increase.
Buenos Aires Travel Tips
Transportation Trains, buses and Metro are the most popular way to get around Buenos Aires.
Need a Visa If you are American, you will not need to apply for a visa, if your stay is less than 90 days.
Currency, Argentina uses the peso. Official Foreign Exchange Rate 1 Euro = approx 380 Peso. Official tourist Foreign Exchange Rate 1 Euro = approx 650 Peso. There is also an illegal, on the street, black market exchange rate. Most every place takes credit cards, and the debit cards are more difficult to use. Carry enough Argentinian currency just to cover small purchases, in case your Credit Card fails.
Language Argentinians speak Spanish. A lot of the big tourist areas have English speaking employees. At the mom-and-pop shops you just do the best you can, however, even broken Spanish should see you through.
Climate Being in the southern hemisphere means that winters are cold and windy and summers warm, humid and wet. What ever time of year you visit, come prepared for temperatures between low of 3C and high of 32C.
Electricity in Buenos Aires is 220 volts. If you can find one bring Argentinian type C and I adapters with you.
Our recommendation of the order of importance by which you should visit the sights:-
Recoleta Cemetery
If it’s your first time in Buenos Aires you won’t want to miss this extraordinary cemetery. This cemetery inspires opulence and gives a glimpse at Buenos Aires and into its history and patronage.
Make sure not to miss the burial places of a few of Argentina’s most famous political figures. Eva Peron ( Duarte ), probably the most iconic for example is buried here.
It’s quite easy to find her grave using the directory at the main gate of Recoleta Cemetery.
La Recoleta Cemetery is a city within a city and it’s not just a graveyard. This is the city of the dead for Argentina’s rich and famous and it’s just immense.
It’s easy to get lost in this vast space of huge catacombs, mausoleums, crypts, sarcophagi and coffins with elaborately carved angels on top. There are headstones taller than you could possibly imagine and obelisks every now and again.
Drink Mate
Pronounced mah-tay, this is the unofficial drink of Argentina that Argentinian’s simply can’t do without.
It’s made from yerba mate, a herb that is crushed just like loose tea. It’s put into a gourd and hot water is poured on top. You then drink it through a metal straw.
Typically Argentinians all have their own gourds, straws and thermos which they take everywhere so mate isn’t something you’ll regularly see on a cafe menu but, if you do come across it, make sure to give it a try, it has a strong bitter taste.
El Ateneo Gran Splendid
This is one branch of an Argentinian bookstore but it’s so much more than that. This comes close to being the grandest and most spectacular bookstore setting ever.
Even if you don’t plan on buying anything (the English language section is pretty limited), you can still come in and enjoy the splendour and opulence of this grand setting.
It is over 100 years old and originally started as a theatre which later converted into a cinema and later still, a bookstore.
The old theatre seating area now houses thousands of books on pretty much every topic imaginable.
Watch a Tango Show or Dance It
Tango is to Argentina what salsa is to Colombia and samba and Bossa nova is to Brazil. A tango show is a must while in Buenos Aires for a truly Argentine experience.
Tango dancing got its roots in the port of Buenos Aires and it’s the typical porteños dance. There are many different shows catering to all different budgets.
If you’re feeling adventurous and want to really get involved, head to a milonga. A milonga is a place where local people go to dance the tango and there are many authentic ones in the city depending on the day of the week.
We went to milonga Salón Marabu. It’s best to check local listings when in Buenos Aires as they tend to move around.
You can expect to see many different couples dancing solo and as a group. Some shows also include dinner, but we found that the dinner wasn’t really worth the money especially if you’re plant-based. Go to the show with a drink instead.
Casa Rosada and Plaza de Mayo
Plaza de Mayo and Avenida de Mayo, leading up to it, is the centre of Argentinian politics. This area is full of huge colonial, classical-style buildings and gives it its European feel.
From Baroque style wrought-iron balconies to classical columns, arches and friezes this part of Buenos Aires impress both historically and architecturally.
Here you can check out the Casa Rosada, the government’s office, painted an unusual pink colour as well as Plaza de Mayo on which you’ll find protest banners, graffiti and graphic artwork.
On Avenida de Mayo, among all the classical style buildings you’ll also find the grand Palacio Barolo, an eclectic office building that now houses a language school and other local businesses.
It’s particularly famous for its unusual architecture, particularly the rounded balconies.
San Telmo Market
Knick-knacks and kitsch are what San Telmo is famous for and this Sunday market is a glimpse into the more bohemian side of Buenos Aires.
You can pretty much buy anything at this market from cool jewellery to mate cups to old coins and books.
Even if you’re not particularly interested in the shopping, one of the best parts about the market is just walking around chatting to all the friendly locals, getting a drink at a quirky cafe and people watching.
You’ll also find a lot of live music going on around the market which you can just stand and listen to as you walk around.
Even when the market isn’t on there’s always something going on in the San Telmo neighbourhood and a number of kitsch, vintage stores and antique shops are open here permanently.
San Telmo market is open every Sunday from 10am - 5pm so you might want to time your visit to Buenos Aires around a Sunday.
Explore La Boca
La Boca is probably one of the most iconic barrios of Buenos Aires due to its vibrantly painted houses and the La Bombonera stadium, home to La Boca Juniors.
Although a bit touristy this neighbourhood is great for taking pictures, watching tango dancers in the street and seeing artists at work in the Caminito street.
Check out La Bombonera stadium, one of Argentinas most famous with a fanatical fanbase. If you plan on taking photos here, make sure to visit early in the morning before tour groups arrive as it can get very busy.
Watch a Football Match
If you can squeeze it in on your last day then make sure to make the effort to see a soccer game.
Argentinians are absolutely fanatical about football so what better way to experience the local culture than to join in.
Argentina’s two biggest teams are La Boca (Diego Maradona’s ex-team) and River Plate, and if you can’t get a ticket to see a game at their stadiums then head to a local bar or pub where things will definitely get wild and passionate.
Visit Plaza Dorrego
When in San Telmo make sure not to miss this influential and historical square.
San Telmo used to be the largest residential area in Buenos Aires during the 19th Century meaning this square was a focal point for dance, communication and arts through the years.
On it, you’ll find many shops, theatres, pubs and bars and of course the famous Obelisco.
Make sure to also visit 9 de Julio, the gigantic avenue that crosses Corrientes Avenue at the famous Obelisk. It’s one of the largest avenues in the world and here you’ll find many stores, business and shaded walkways.
The avenue is lined with jacaranda trees, so if you visit during the spring when they are in full bloom don’t miss this avenue turn pink.
Other places suggested for a visit are Teatro Colon, where you can get a guided tour in English, Museo Evita, and our favourite MAMBA (Museum of Modern Art). It is also possible to visit one of the many leather factories and purchase leather jackets and handbags at a reduced rate.
Eat Empanadas
If you’ve been travelling around South America for a while you’ll know that empanadas are a big deal and in Buenos Aires, it’s no different.
Visit a Gaucho ranch
A prominent figure in Argentinian culture is their cowboy, known as a Gaucho. A Gaucho typically refers to a local nomadic horseman, known for their bravery and abilities on horseback and herding cattle. The hallmark of any true Gaucho is his traditional dress of baggy trousers and traditional jumpers. All of this clothing, they top off with a colourful pancake sized beret.
They carry a two foot long knife in their belt and a Boleadora (Bolas). The Bolas is made up of three heavy rocks covered in leather, tied together with platted rope straps. They are used to catch wild horses and runaway cattle.
We spent a wonderful day soaking up the Gaucho life style at the Santa Susana ranch 80k north of Buenos Aires. This ranch was established by an Irish family of Rossiters from Wexford in Ireland, back in the late 1800’s.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Buenos Aires, Argentina 2023:-
(1) Take a trip up the country to a Gaucho ranch experience;
(2) Take a river delta trip, to appreciate delta living from the river.
(3) Our third would be strolling along city streets just soaking up the very Argentinian atmosphere. Conclude the evening then with a Tango show.
As always, the people we met on the tour and our Travel Department guide, Maria and the bus driver, enriched the whole experience.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
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