We spent nine days visiting the many tourist attractions that the Bay of Naples, Italy has to offer.
Link to a (Short) video montage of a Sailing Flotilla around the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast visit (Overview):-
To view the video select:- https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cg1bFiEA2ku/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Link to a (Full) video montage of a Sailing Flotilla around the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast visit:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/rcEAhx3Kqrw
A one week flotilla sailing in the Bay of Naples
As this was the first ever sailing holiday, for two of our crew, it was both challenging, scary an exhilarating experience all wrapped into one.
We went with a Sunsail (Sail Italia) flotilla and sailed around the Bay of Naples, Italy for a week. The climate was typical mediterranean for July, with daily temperatures over 30 degree celsius and very light winds - not ideal for sailing. As it was high season along the Mediterranean, with most Europeans taking the month of August off as their annual vacation, it was busy in the various resorts and on the high seas.
A flotilla sailing holiday may not be everyone’s cup of tea, however, there is an enormous sense of freedom, accomplishment and enjoyment having done one, and a good opportunity to meet interesting people. This sailing holiday was our fifth time to put our toes in the water at sailing.
A sailing trip, such as this, would involve high levels of activity, in our opinion, particularly when you are crewing the boat yourself. If you use a marine skill level scale of “1 - 5” for sailing, we would regard The Bay of Naples flotilla sailing as a level “two” and this level only increases to a level “three” if you choose to do the free time lone boat sailing away from the flotilla.
Sailing in the Bay of Naples is relatively safe as there is little or no tide difference and you can generally time your watch by the wind. It blows between 13.00 and 17.00 each afternoon, otherwise it is relatively benign. On this particular occasion, we were unlucky with the amount of motor transiting we had to do as the winds only blew a 10 to 15 knots from the west in the mid-to-late afternoon, but this suited our two friends that are new to sailing.
We moved up a notch in experience when we did flotilla sailing in more exposed sea conditions in other locations, such as around Mallorca and in the Caribbean. As with every sport, you build up your competency and confidence over time, and you are never too late to start.
Our voyage started on the island of Procida and took in the neighbouring island of Ischia and Capri along with the coast of Sorrento and Amalfi.
The cost of hiring a yacht for a sailing holiday needs to be considered on a per passenger basis. The Oceanis 45ft boat that we hired had accommodation for 10 people but as there were only four of us on board, we had ample space.
A sense of the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast
The Bay of Naples and the Amalfi coast are incredible regions of Italy to visit and with so many amazing things to see and do, you’ll be spoilt for choice once you arrive. There are lots of things to do across this whole region. It doesn’t matter if you’re visiting for a quick stopover, a long weekend or a few weeks.
Capri is a beautiful island that lies to the south of the Bay of Naples, just a few kilometres from the end of the Sorrento peninsula. Although it is a small island of roughly 4 by 2 miles, it still has a lot to offer any visitor.
Naples historically was the largest, most picturesque, highly sought after region in Southern Italy by the Romans. It is packed with countless historical landmarks, museums and churches. It can be loud, dirty and seems to be bursting at the seams with the mass of people living in high density apartments and those visiting this very popular holiday region.
We visited the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy in Sept 2022 for a seven day flotIlla sailing vacation. The climate was very warm and sunny and ideal for sun bathing from the bow, once the yacht was underway in sea breeze.
In considering a trip to the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, we decided to take a flotilla sailing food and wine experience with the SunSail (Sail Italia) with the same lead boat crew on-hand throughout the entire holiday.
The tour comprised a seven day yacht hire of a 45ft Oceanis boat. We sailed and slept on board our boat for the entire week, with a one night stay in the “Sweet Sleep hotel” either end of our weeks vacation in the city centre of Naples, near the Central Station.
After our nine nights enjoying all that the Bay of Naples has to offer we flew directly back to Dublin from Napoli Airport.
The official currency of the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast is the Euro.
If you get an opportunity during your travels to the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast do the archaeological tours of ancient Rome, we thoroughly enjoyed our visits to Naples, Procida Port, Ischia (Forio), Sorrento, Amalfi, Capri, Porto di Ischia, Procida Port and finally back to Naples.
A typical daily flotilla yachting timetable
0700 bells Visit local bakery for coffee & nibbles
0800 bells Rise & Shine
0900 bells Lead crew navigation meeting
0945 bells Yacht crew decides passage plan
1000 bells Cast off & get underway
Motor or Sail if enough wind
1300 bells Anchor for swim & lunch
Motor or Sail if enough wind
1730 bells Come along side in next destination port
1915 bells Group wine & dinner experience
1130 bells Return to yacht for sleep
Repeat
Naples food and wine itinerary
Day 1:- Friday 22nd July 2022. We caught the early flight from Dublin to Naples, arriving 11.00am local time. We spent the day taking in the tourist attractions that Naples has to offer on shore.
Day 2 :- Saturday 23rd July 2022. We took the passenger ferry from Naples port out to the island of Procida, a one hour passage, to join the Flotilla at Procida port. We spent the rest of the day familiarising ourselves with the yacht. That evening we attended the welcoming flotilla startup dinner in a local restaurant.
Day 3:- Sunday 24th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we did our first transit (motoring, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind, (light winds from West and South West) on our boat called “Filomeana”, a 45 Oceanis Monohull sailing yacht. The transit took us from Procida port to Forio port on the island of Ischia. Along the way we anchored for a snorkelling experience and had our first lunch onboard. That evening we attended the a group dinner in a local restaurant, with rabbit as the house speciality.
Day 4:- Monday 25th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we motored, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind (light winds from East and South East). Along the way we anchored for a snorkelling experience and had our first lunch onboard. That evening we attended the a group dinner in a local restaurant.
Day5:- Tuesday 26th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we motored, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind (light winds from West), from Sorrento to Amalfi. We attended a group flotilla dinner in a local restaurant. We managed to get sailing for small stretches of the passage.
Day6:- Wednesday 27th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we motored, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind (light winds from West), from Amalfi to an anchorage in southern Capri. Following our free days sailing we ate dinner onboard and then visited (via a group tender) Capri town.
Day7:- Thursday 28th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we sailed in average strength winds (wind from the West), from Capri to Ischia port on the North East of Ischia Island. We attended a group flotilla dinner in a local restaurant.
Day8:- Friday 29th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we sailed in average strength winds (wind from the West), from Ischia port to Procida port on the North East of Procida Island. For the first time we deployed the boat’s RIB tender and explored the cave structures within the “Golfo Di Genito”. That evening we attended a group flotilla dinner in a local restaurant, where anchovies are the speciality.
Day9:- Saturday 30th July 2022. Following our final nights sleep on the boat we toured the island of Procida. We caught the late afternoon ferry back to Naples, where we rested in our air conditioned hotel until our final farewell dinner with our entire crew of four.
Day10:- Sunday 31th July 2022. We taxied to Naples airport and caught our return flight back to Dublin.
The Bay of Naples
The region is now one of the less wealthy regions in Italy, however, historically it was the chief city of southern Italy. After the formation of the Italian Republic, the historic wealth of Naples was used to fund the industrial expansion of northern Italy. Despite loosing its glamour and status to the north, its inherent charm, amazing scenery and historical attractions, wonderful food and its splendid weather have transformed it into the classic modern tourist destination, that we know today.
Our general experience of the people from Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast was that they are extremely informal, friendly and very warm and welcoming. There is a natural affinity between the Irish and the Italians, that is rarely paralleled anywhere else in the world. They work very hard to attract tourists to the south of the country, which is very different to the more established areas in the north and centre. Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast has a lot to offer.
Recommendations for the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy.
There is a language barrier, if you speak only English. So it lends itself to undertaking a trip using guided tours, however, most of the younger generation speak good English.
In each of the eight locations, we visited the local tourist trails and highlights on offer. We also visited some of the local hostelries and these left us with a genuine sense of the excellence of the Southern Italian welcome for tourists. In Italy they drive on the right hand side of the road, if you normally use left hand side of the road driving, you should be ultra careful. With the exception of main roads, the countryside roads can become unexpectedly very narrow. Driving in Southern Italy is not for the faint hearted.
The weekend boating escape from the heated stuffiness of high rise living in the city takes place each Saturday and Sunday.
For both tourists and particularly for locals it is a welcome break to sail or motor on the crystal clear waters of the bay and just enjoy the peace, tranquility and the views of both the Amalfi coastline and the Bay of Naples, with its variety of small welcoming traditional islands.
Our must see recommendation for a sailing trip to the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy 2022:-
(1) Our entire sailing trip taking in Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, Capri, Ischia and Procida, was all spectacular;
(2) The actual excitement and freedom of sailing itself, particularly in warm waters with the sun shining in all its splendour, is truly fantastic;
(3) Our third choice would be the availability of numerous excellent and very different ports and beaches;
(4)Our group meals and the company and conversations with the other 10 yacht crews in the flotilla.
(5) Our trip to the island of Capri, with panoramic views of both Capri town and AnaCapri from our boat at anchor were breathtaking.
As always, the people we met on the tour and our Sail Italia lead boat crew Andre, Luca and Anna, enriched the whole experience.
The best time to visit:
Spring ( Mar - May): Beautiful weather and fewer crowds, Avoid Easter and National holidays, Apr 25th and May 1st, respectively.
Summer (Jun - Aug): Peak season, crowded and hottest time of the year.
Autumn (Sept - Nov): Another great time to visit. The weather is mild, but many businesses start to close for the season in November.
Winter (Dec - Feb): It is cold and wet, with choppy seas. Businesses are closed and there are limited ferry services.
Naples
The historic wealth of Naples was used to fund the industrial expansion of northern Italy. As a consequence it has lost its status and glamour while still offering a fascinating collection of museums, churches and architecture. The best frescoes and mosaics of Pompeii and Herculaneum ended up in the Naples Archaeological Museum. Take time to explore Naples (watch out for the vespas). This living medieval city is its own best attraction. This pulse of Italy with its captivating Italian accent, Italian food, history and superb weather for two thirds of the year, has to be seen to be believed, (See Naples and die).
Sorrento
Sorrento is well positioned as both a base to stay while visiting the area and as a sight seeing destination itself, just an hour south of Naples. It is built on a cliff between the mountains and the Mediterranean sea. At peak season, tourists can match in size the population of Sorrento at 20,000 people. It can both be used as a gateway to Capri by ferry from its port and as a starting point for your coach journey of the Amalfi coast. Sorrento features an unspoilt old quarter, a spectacular cliff side setting and a lively main shopping street. Everyone seems to speak good English and it is peppered with lemon and olive groves throughout the town.
Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi coast offers one of the world’s great bus rides, or in our case, fantastic coastal scenery from our casual sail the length of its coastline. The coastal journey from Sorrento to Salerno will afford the passenger ample opportunities for Instagram photo classic moments. You cannot but be left with a deep respect for those engineers and builders who build it in the first instance and even more respect for the bus drivers who routinely drive this stretch of road. All the while, the Mediterranean sparkles a mere 500m drop below you from the coastal road.
The Amalfi coast towns are generally pretty but bursting with tourists. They are generally overpriced and congested and all the small towns along the way are a very long hike upwards from tiny beaches. So sit back in the bus and enjoy the ride.
If you take in this fabulous coastline from a seaward vantage point as we did on this occasion, we feel, you will not be disappointed.
Capri
Capri is a beautiful island that lies in the south if the Naples Bay. It is build on top of a block of limestone rocks. It is known for its crystal clear turquoise waters.
It does attract big crowds. As with all tourist hotspots, it can be expensive to eat there, should you choose to do so. Capri was initially made famous by the roman emperors Tiberius and Augustus using it as their hide away holiday vacation spot. But, today it is colonised during day time hours by tourists looking to see the rich and famous. Prices are commensurate with Milan and Rome haute couture districts. Via Camerelle leads to a path of shops displaying current fashion at its finest, with dreamy window displays and deluxe price tags.
Piazzetta square, a lively shopping hub and a good location to take in the sights, people watch and have a coffee. It can be reached by the funicular from the sea level Marina Grande. Marina Grande is the key transportation hub for visiting the whole island. Its beach is free also.
Its chief attractions are an all island boat tip, the Blue Grotto and its Cable Chair lift from Anacapri to the summit on Monte Solaro. Not recommended for anyone scared of heights. The round trip takes 40 minutes, with amazing views of Naples Bay and Sorrento from the summit. Also in AnaCapri visit Axel Munthe’s Villa San Michele with its fabulous gardens overlooking Ischia Island, he spent his whole life creating them.
If you are not on a sailing trip, Capri can be reached by ferry with port connections from Naples and Sorrento.
It is especially popular among celebrities and honeymooners.
When planning a visit to one of the most popular regions in southern Italy, there are a few tips and suggestions that we recommend.
Our observations and tips from our trips to the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast
The only thing predictable about the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi Coastline is the friendliness of its shopkeepers and the boldness of its motorcycle and car drivers.
Berthing fees in marinas during August for a 45ft mono hull sailing boat range from €150 to €260 per overnight along-side stay. The standard of berthing facilities, in the various marinas we tied-up alongside, varied hugely despite the large nightly fees. They calculate the berthing fees based on the length and width of the boat and the number of people on board.
Standard nautical rules and courtesy do not always apply when sailing in Italian waters. Be prepared for the unexpected at all times, whilst underway.
The mainland region is blessed with a very good groundwater system allied to this it has volcanic fertile soil, making it one of the garden food production areas for Italy, for particularly: Oranges, Lemons, Kiwi, Olives, Nuts, Grapes, Tomatoes. Tip: If you see the nets covering the top of the orchards then they are protecting the cirrus fruits for the wind and the sun. Alternately, if the nets are on the ground, they are positioned for Olive harvesting.
Keep a bottle of water handy during your trips as there can be a reasonable degree of walking and climbing involved.
There is only one main roadway in and out of Piano Di Sorrento. At peak times there can be long traffic delays on this road. Large tour buses, although skilfully driven, can lead to delays and congestion, particularly on the very many hairpin bend stretches.
When dining out, order the ‘vino della casa’ (house wine) instead of a bottle. It usually comes served by the litre in a lovely carafe.
Italians don’t really do breakfast, they usually have a cornetto (croissant) and an espresso to start their day. Their real food comes at lunchtime. Even in hotels, don’t expect anything more than a ‘continental breakfast’. Italians eat late dinners between 08:00 - 11:00pm.
Italy doesn’t have much of a tipping culture but restaurants will usually add a service charge to your bill.
Museums and restaurants are open throughout the week, albeit Monday is their rest-day, therefore most municipal attractions remain closed. Keep Mondays for shopping and visiting parks.
On the first Sunday of each month, numerous museums and archaeological sites are open to the public for free. This isn’t just restricted to Naples, it applies to all regions in Italy.
Try to buy tickets online, prior to your trip, they work out much cheaper.
Cash is king here. Make sure you carry enough cash with you each day to pay for incidentals like take away pizza or gelato. Even though things are changing, more often than not the smaller establishments will only accept cash.
With every transaction you make, no matter how small the purchase, you’ll be given a small receipt (scontrino or ricevuta in Italian). You might feel inclined to leave it on the counter or throw it straight in the bin. Italy has what is known as the Guardia di Finanza which is basically the finance police. You’ll see them dressed in smart grey suits with a bright yellow strip down their suit leg. You will need the receipts to prove you have paid your tax.
Ice-cream (Gelato) is on sale everywhere. Enjoying an authentic creamy gelato is one of the real pleasures when in Italy. Not all Gelatos are equal, when you find a good one, stick to it.
While you don’t need to be fluent in Italian, knowing a few choice words and phrases will help you in situations outside of your hotel or visiting museums. Italians aren’t known for their mastery of the English language.
Italians invented the coffee culture along with the macchiatto, espresso, and cappuccino. However, there are no ‘cafes’ in Italy, instead there are ‘bars’ and they are pretty much everywhere. When ordering coffee be sure to specify the type you want.
Italians see milk as something you should only have at breakfast. Italians consider it a massive faux pas to order a cappuccino or (caffè) latte with or after lunch or dinner.
Public toilets in Italy are pretty dismal. They don’t have toilet seats and you need to pay 50 cents to use a toilet. Be sure to bring your own tissues and wipes.
Standing at the bar is cheaper, be prepared to pay a higher price to sit at a table.
Pack comfortable shoes (flip flops, sandals and sneakers), light scarves and hats (for sun protection) and UV sunglasses. Opt for lighter and brighter clothing. Shorts are acceptable in most restaurants. However, when visiting churches, the rule is simple: cover knees and shoulders or you’ll be refused entry.
Train travel around the Bay of Naples is easy and inexpensive. During peak times and on weekends the trains can be extremely busy and crowded.
You can drink local spring water. Ancient Romans kept the Eternal City well-hydrated providing the best drinking water to its citizen via its aqueducts. Public ‘nasoni’ fountains scattered throughout the city are absolutely safe to drink, but you might prefer to buy bottled mineral water: frizzante (sparkling) or naturale (still).
When it comes to mosquitoes, the Bay of Naples is comparable to other Mediterranean regions, so take your usual precautions.
In most accommodations in Naples and Capri, it is preferred that you do not throw toilet paper into the toilet. You should use the bin supplied instead.
Be wary of taxi driver potential rip offs. A popular one is to only given you back change of a €20 despite the fact that you paid them €50.
Do not expect to eat great food in the historical centres, remember that you’re paying for the view and not high-quality food.
Italy is no stranger to pickpockets who operate all over the country. They tend to stay around monuments, archaeological sites and popular bus routes. Be wary if anyone tries to distract you for any reason, be suspicious, especially if they are adamantly trying to get your attention.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the dest
There are two types of boat hire, bareboat and flotilla sailing. A professional skipper hire is additionally available for either type of boat hire.
Bareboat charter is yacht charter holiday without a hired skipper, so one or more of the charter guests will be sailing the boat themselves. Sailboat charter on a bareboat yacht either requires a valid licence or proof of sufficient sailing experience. In some countries a second member of the charter needs to have sailing experience, too. Since there is no crew, the charterers of the yacht will also do any required provisioning, cooking, planning of itineraries etc
Flotillas are available for varying skill levels from Easy to Advanced level. Conditions such as wind, tide, distances and mooring methods determine the experience required to sail in each area. You can be as independent as you like, but your Lead Boat Crew are always nearby in case you need any assistance during your trip. They will also recommend the best anchorages, harbours, restaurants and places to visit.
A possible option for sailors who don’t have too much experience would be a combination of skippered and bareboat charter. They could hire a skipper to sail the yacht for the first few days and gradually take over until they feel confident to navigate the boat alone. Another possibility would be a flotilla charter with a lead boat and a guide that gives assistance.
General sailing boat tips:-
- No matter how big the boat you hire, space is still at a minimum onboard a boat;
- When food and drink provisioning for a boat trip, try to resist the temptation to over provision on your first day shopping;
- The one provision to spend the higher price on is your water provision. A greater chance that your water will taste nice;
- Not everyone gets sick on a boat trip. For those who do, try getting a combination or all of:- wearing a sailing bracelet;
wear a seasickness patch; take medication such as Dramamine or Bonine; eat lots of ginger biscuits;
- Boats do not have a ton of storage space so using soft-sided luggage, like a duffel bag or a soft backpack is recommended;
- Bring along ample cloths pegs for hanging out your cloths to dry;
- Cut back on bringing grooming equipment, but bring a lot more shorts, tee-shirts and underwear;
- Invest in a pair of lightweight waterproof footwear, preferably shoes that float, crocs fit the bill perfectly;
- Attach something recognisable onto your dinghy to make it stand out to you and others amidst a bunch of dinghies that all look the same in the dark;
- Do a thorougher check of all your boat equipment before you leave the initial base port to make sure everything is ship shape and Bristol fashion
